The Science of Skincare: A Deeper Look Into the Ingredients of Skincare Products

Do you ever feel beguiled by an enthusiastic description of a skincare product? After buying what you thought would resolve your skin issue, you’re left with skin irritation and are baffled about why it didn’t work.

This doesn’t have to be your experience — and you certainly don’t want it to be the experience of your clients as an esthetician. Understanding the structure and function of the skin at the cellular level, along with the operation of skincare ingredients, can protect you from putting too much faith in shining descriptions of this or that product.

Spectrum Advanced Aesthetics delves into the science of the skin and the impact of common skincare ingredients. Read on so you can use and recommend products with confidence in their effectiveness for given skin problems.

• The Fundamentals of Skincare Science
• Anatomy and Physiology of the Skin
• The 6 Most Common Skincare Ingredients
• Why Should Estheticians Understand the Science of Skincare Ingredients?
• Spectrum Advanced Aesthetics: A Curriculum Focused on the Science of Skincare

The skin is the largest organ in the human body and is your initial defense against disease-causing organisms. It helps regulate body temperature and enables tactile sensation, along with other important functions such as vitamin D synthesis. The skin is prone to damage from various sources, including:

• Sun exposure
• Skin cancer
• Germs
• Dirt
• Aging
• Skin conditions such as acne, eczema, excessive oiliness, etc.

Your skin is composed of three layers. In order from most superficial to deepest, these include:

• Epidermis: The top layer of the skin, continually replenishing itself with new skin cells, prevents the entrance of bacteria and germs into your body. It does this by forming a barrier between the air and the inside of your body and by actively providing immune protection via resident anti-viral Langerhans cells. The pigment melanin, responsible for your skin color, also resides within the epidermis.
• Dermis: The middle layer of skin makes up about 90% of its thickness. It contains important proteins — collagen and elastin — to give the skin resilience and elasticity as well as pain receptors, sweat and oil glands, and blood vessels.
• Hypodermis: This bottom layer is the fatty portion of the skin that helps cushion muscles and bones and regulate body temperature. 

Spectrum Advanced Aesthetics offers a module for students on the anatomy and physiology of the skin, detailing these layers and how skin cells function. Connect with an admissions advocate to learn more about the science of skincare. 

The active ingredients in skincare products are those that perform the desired functions, such as clearing up acne or evening out skin tone. The products you recommend to your clients will depend on their skin's specific needs and what ingredients are best suited to satisfy them.

#1: Retinol

Retinol is a form of vitamin A that has the following benefits:

• Assists in the control of acne by naturally exfoliating, which helps clear out pores
• Can help reduce melanin overproduction and thus lessen dark spots
• Increases collagen production, protecting the firmness and elasticity of the skin while reducing the appearance of wrinkles

Retinol is available in serums, creams, and lotions and can be found in an “encapsulated” form, meaning its potency is released over an extended period of time, reducing the risk of irritation.

Retinol should be avoided by pregnant women because of its unknown and unstudied possibility of birth defects. 

#2: Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic acid is a natural substance in the body that helps cushion joints and serves as a lubricant in the eyes. It is used in creams, lotions, serums, and ointments to treat the skin in many ways, including:

• Helping wounds heal faster
• Reducing scarring
• Increasing skin flexibility
• Keeping skin hydrated
• Reducing wrinkles and lines

#3: Vitamin C

Vitamin C is an antioxidant that is helpful for the skin in that it can:

• Stimulate collagen production, reducing wrinkles
• Reduce acne lesions due to its anti-inflammatory effects
• Brighten the skin by reducing melanin overproduction

Vitamin C for skincare comes in many different forms, but not all are effective. Factors that affect its efficacy include:

• Form: Pure vitamin C for skin (L-ascorbic acid) is preferable.
• Concentration: 10-20% of pure vitamin C within the formula is optimal.
• pH: This should be 3.5 or lower to ensure the vitamin stays in its active, stable form so it can penetrate the skin.
• Other ingredients: Vitamin E promotes absorption of vitamin C, and ferulic acid helps maintain the appropriate pH level.

#4: Niacinamide

Also known as vitamin B3, niacinamide is a water-soluble vitamin. It is used in serums and cleansers, but its effect will be most potent if used as a serum because it allows more contact time.

Niacinamide may provide the following benefits:

• Diminishes fine lines and wrinkles
• Minimizes enlarged pores, which keeps oil and debris from accumulating and gives the skin a smoother appearance.
• Improves uneven skin tone by fading hyperpigmentation and preventing new discolorations 

#5: Salicylic Acid

Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA). It is oil-soluble and can penetrate and unclog pores and clear out dead skin cells, making for smoother, healthier-looking skin. It also helps regulate excess oil production, making it suitable for oily skin.

This ingredient can be found in acne spot treatments, cleansers, toners, and moisturizers. Most skin types can use a concentration of 2%, but people with more sensitive skin should use a lower concentration to avoid irritation.

#6: Glycolic Acid

Glycolic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), naturally found in sugarcane and some fruits. It may provide the following benefits:

• Remove dead skin cells and oils
• Hydrate the skin
• Reverse sun damage
• Reduce acne and acne scars
• Minimize the effects of age on the skin

Though glycolic acid comes in many types of products, leave-on formulas are the most effective. People who have never used glycolic acid should begin with a lower concentration (around 8%). 

As an esthetician, understanding the science of skincare is the best way to ensure you are competent to help your clients meet their skincare goals. 

Students in Spectrum Advanced Aesthetics programs learn in detail the effects of various product ingredients so they can be fully prepared to develop an effective skincare regimen for each client. When clients come in for a facial, students can take them to our school store and recommend any of the nine different skincare brands we carry.

Safety for Their Clients

The most critical reason to thoroughly understand the science of skincare and the potential effects of various ingredients is to ensure your client's safety. 

For example, some ingredients are contraindicated during pregnancy. Any products containing these ingredients must not be used on or recommended to a pregnant client.

A thorough health history must be obtained before skin treatment to prevent the use or recommendation of products a client is allergic to. You should also be able to recognize signs of an allergic reaction on the skin.

Effectiveness of Treatment

An esthetician should talk about the goals of treatment with their client and choose products that reflect their skincare concerns.

Because estheticians understand how to conduct a skin analysis, they can identify changes for better or worse after clients undergo treatments in the salon and test the products recommended. They pay attention to the following characteristics of the skin:

• Tone and color
• Texture, including surface irregularities
• Redness or inflammation
• Pore size
• Oiliness or shine
• Moisture levels
• Elasticity and firmness

As estheticians track the progress of the client’s skin on a given treatment plan, they can make necessary modifications to ensure that treatment is effective.

Tailored Treatment Recommendations

An esthetician can make customized skincare regimen recommendations. You can gain experience doing this in our esthetician training at Spectrum Advanced Aesthetics. 

In this program, you will learn about the performance of different skincare ingredients and how to advise clients about which products will be just right and which may be too aggressive for their skin based on a skincare analysis.

Understanding New Products

The skincare industry is always coming out with new products. By understanding the ingredients, estheticians can better keep up with the latest products and trends and be able to customize recommendations based on the individual needs of their clients.

Research the evidence behind product claims to ensure they are legitimate before recommending the use of a product. 

Carefully consider the ingredients, especially watching out for those that are irritating to sensitive skin, low-quality, or not natural. You will earn the trust of your clients when you do the work to be informed and knowledgeable about the products you use and recommend.

Our Portland esthetician school will prepare you to become a licensed esthetician who is well-versed in the science of skincare and can provide excellent care to your clients. 

Learn from experienced, certified educators and get clinical experience using high-quality equipment in our Standard or Advanced Aesthetics Programs.

Call us today or visit our website to learn more about how Spectrum Advanced Aesthetics is your first step toward a career in aesthetics, whether in a cosmetic or medical setting.